A Culture of Fear

Before I was granted permission to come on this trip, I was given a checklist of documents that I needed to read, sign, and bring with me to Ghana. One of these documents described all the dangers and hazards of Ghana that I might encounter and should be aware of. When we arrive on campus, another string of warnings were given to us. Various authorities warned us of where to go and where not to go; they spoke of places that were unsafe at night, described people that we should avoid, precautionary measures that we need to take to ensure our safety and the safety of our belongings. They told us of foods to avoid, water not to drink, things we shouldn’t do, blah blah blah. They gave us so many warnings. From my perspective, they made Ghana out to be a very, very dangerous place.

I’m sure intentions were good, but I must admit, I was pretty scared and paranoid that everyone was out to get me by the end of all these speeches. Thus, for the first month that I was here, I didn’t feel safe going out once the sun had set. I didn’t want to travel anywhere alone. I was very hesitant to give any of my contact information or just any information about myself to anyone. I felt like I couldn’t trust anyone. It’s been exhausting trying to be so vigilant and cautious all the time.

Last Friday though, I came to a... realization. Here's a little backstory.

Last Friday, I woke up with the goal of traveling to Mampong (a small town about an hour north east of Accra) to visit a herbal research center. I’m currently conducting a research study on the role of herbal medicine in modern Accra. I met with my research adviser last Thursday to talk with him about my research project, and he gave me the name of a friend at this research center and told me to ask for him if I were to ever go to the place. Since I didn’t have class Friday, I figured why not go and get a head start on the project. Earlier this week, I also met a girl who was also had strong interest in this topic. Thus, it would been perfect to have her accompany me. However, I couldn't get a hold of her. Around 10:30am, I finally mustered up the courage to suck it up and just go alone. I walk to the tro-tro station and get on a tro-tro heading toward the general direction of Mampong. On the tro-tro, I end up sitting next to a girl who recognized me as one of two asian girls who lives in Volta Hall. She’s a Ghanaian, level 200 student, and I think her name is Franz. We started talking (she was very nice and very interesting) and she eventually gave me directions to the research center. When we arrive at Pongo(?) junction, she exits with me and walks me to the tro-tro that would take me directly to Mampong.

On this short walk from the first tro-tro to the next tro-tro station, I was hissed at and asked by a number of different men where I was going. (The hissing is actually quite common here- it’s a way for people to get each other’s attention. Personally, I find it very rude.) Because I was with the other Ghanaian girl, I just ignored the hissing and the questions and continued walking. I have a tendency to do that here. When I’m heading toward a destination, I will greet others when they say hi to me, but when they start shouting “obruni, obruni” or when they hiss and ask me to give them my number, I just brush it off and keep walking. Today was just like any other day, so I walk past this group of hissing men without awknowledging them. I don't think anything of it. However, after I pass the group of guys and am about to squeeze between a tro-tro and a wooden pillar, this guy grabs my arm, looks me in the eye and with an annoyed tone in this voice, asks, “why do you ignore me obruni, I am just trying to help you.”

I was kind of shocked. I paused, pulled my arm away, apologized for ignoring him and thanked him for his concern. As this is all happening, Franz just grabbed my other arm and pulled me to keep walking with her.

Ugh.

That took me by suprise. What just happened? Was it really that big of a deal where he had to stop me by grabbing my arm like that? Then I thought back to the entire senario and asked myself why I was ignoring him in the first place. I think it was because I’ve been conditioned and cultured to fear everything here. We had been given so many warnings about being vigilant and cautious with whom we interact with at the market, I was just heeding their warnings. However, in doing so, I didn’t even think about the people on the other end that we were being warned against. They were human too. Maybe they aren’t as bad as the EAP guides and such state. Maybe I needed to let my guard down a little and trust a little more. I started to feel like a horrible person.

When I finally got on the tro-tro to Mampong, I sat sandwiched between a very quiet girl and a guy who looked like he did not want to be on this tro-tro. I greeted them and sat, and eventually started talking to the girl, asking her where she was going and trying to get to know her a bit better. Eventually, the guy jumped in on our conversation, and the hour long tro-tro ride turned into a much shorter one. They even helped me identify the correct stop and wished me well on my way out.

I think this was a good lesson for me. This trip to Mampong was the first one I had taken alone, and it’s left me with this lesson that I feel is very, very valuable. I need to start trust my own judgment. I need to start listening to my own thoughts instead of letting other's influencing and overshadowning my own. I’m going to be here for another 4 months and I can’t be scared and fearful of everything that comes my way. Unfortunate incidents will happen along the way, (In fact, we were stolen from the other day at the beach.) but I can’t let these incidents stop me from exploring and experiencing. I just need to acknowledge and beware that these things can and might happen. It could happen anywhere, you know? If I’m in a constant state of fear, I might go home with less than I came with.

Thanks for listening.